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St. Germain (Page 24)

The Brasserie St. Germain is part of a small revival of brewing in French Flanders. There are about 30
breweries that are fighting along with St. Germain to put hops back into the local beer. When asked to describe
the brewery’s ‘philosophy,’ Stephan, the brewer, replies simply that, ‘We make the beers we like to drink.’ In
France, then, just as in Belgium, a pattern is beginning to emerge. As the bigger breweries go increasingly bland, brewing to suit the tastes of the lowest common denominator and relying more on marketing than quality work to make a living, a corps of independent passionate beer drinkers and homebrewers, unable to get the beer
they really want to drink, have determined to make that beer themselves. And the people are starting to understand the difference. After only six years, St. Germain has made its mark, and grown. It is now, indisputably, the most awarded brewery in France. Put that down to the power of hops.
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